2023 Reserve Chardonnay

This is taut, reserved, powerful and complex at once. It’s a chardonnay on a mission. It’s straw-coloured, driven by custard apple and white peach, creamy in an integrated way, and touched by hazelnut, toast, meal and pine characters. It’s all there and it’s all impressive, the length of the finish as well, but the taut feel here suggests that better is yet to come. In any case, we’re clearly in upper echelon territory.

Vines are an average of 20 years, this is given the luxe treatment from picking to bottling. Matured in a minute 3% new oak puncheons, 50% in 1 year and the balance in 2 to 5 year old oak for 10 months. Superlative is the adjective of choice. This is a bright posy of star jasmine, honeysuckle centre and bee pollen. White nectarines bathed in vanilla syrup, jiggly lemon curd tart and whipped nougatine. The innate power is wrapped in the filigree of restraint with citrus blossom taking the lead, long lines of mineral spring freshness and the auxiliary of subtle oak. It’s devine and will cellar well in a wine fridge for another 10 years plus. If you can’t wait, drink it now with manchego triangles and buttered baguettes. It simply does not need any competing, fussy dishes, this is purity in its finest Yarra Valley form.

This was quite a cool and slightly wet vintage, resulting in a late harvest, but the extended ripening period contributed to the fineness and vibrancy of the wines. This one comes from two estate sites—Block Y28 and the Copperhead Vineyard in Coldstream, both planted to the Mendoza clone. It was hand-harvested, whole bunch pressed and fermented on solids in 500-litre puncheons, of which only 3% were new. Interestingly, but not surprisingly, malolactic fermentation was avoided, giving the wine a bright, refreshing crispness. On the nose, it displays typical aromas of lemon and nectarine-dominated stone fruits with a varietal hint of grapefruit. The fine, expressive palate delivers nectarine and roasted cashew with a fine cut of lime and lemony citrus. Has all the potential for long-term cellaring.

Light-mid yellow, bright. Complex smoky, toasty and nutty/almond aromas, shot through with lemon/citrus fruit. Hints of nougat on nose and palate. The wine is delicate, restrained yet has a quiet power and good persistence. This will reward another year in the cellar, and all bodes well for a bright future.

From the estate Y28 vineyard and the Copperhead vineyard in Coldstream. Barrel fermented and matured in French puncheons (14% new). Brightly coloured. Engaging from the first whiff with its bouquet of orchard fruits and cashew, with a hint of vanillin and white flowers. This has good presence and power on the youthful and tightly wound palate, finishing saline and long.