2021 Reserve Shiraz Viognier

2% co-fermented Viognier. Wow this is a show stopper, beguiling in its layers of hibiscus, rosella, tulip and rose. What follows is red licorice, wild raspberry and wrapped snugly in blackberries and juniper. There is a distinct purple Shiso leaf, black cardamom and caraway seed. These wild aromatics are tamed by a medium weighted palate with earthy spices of cumin, potting soil and dried tobacco leaf. Acidity stretches out the flavours which continue to hum along. Tannins are etched in fine pinpoint accuracy and the graduation of flavours is remarkable. This is a true triumph of cool climate Shiraz and worthy of applause. Drink with thinly sliced Jamon, chargrilled bread and bathe in the bliss of drinking one of the standout wines of the year.

Co-fermented with 2% viognier and matured for 15 months in 21% new French barriques and puncheons. A deep-ish crimson ruby. Just so fragrant with its aromas of red and blue fruits, florals, allspice and a hint of incense. This medium-bodied and beautifully poised wine caresses the palate before finishing with persistent well-knit tannins that are a good reminder that, as delicious as this is now, it's also been built to last.

One of the finest Shiraz Viognier ever to come off this Yarra vineyard. It’s ripe and fleshy with abundant dense fruit coursing through the palate. Aromas of spices and perfumes with that ever so faint apricot kernel and floral orange blossom evident. The palate is beautifully knitted together with the tannins from the Viognier perfectly in tune with the weight of the Shiraz. Poised and powerful.

Fabulously bright and youthful in the glass. Lifted and fragrant aromas of blueberry, cola, pepper, spice, pot pourri, sweet florals and nutty oak. Fresh, lively and really crunchy and punchy on the palate. Lashings of blue fruits, spice, anise and bramble. Lovely mouth-feel, weight and texture. A mid-weight, cooler-climate shiraz of real sophistication and absolute seamlessness.

There is just 2% of Viognier, co-fermented with the Shiraz, but it is evident in these early days. Various plots used, including one which has been key to the blend for almost a decade, with fifteen months in oak, a mix of 500 litre puncheons and 228 litre barriques, 22% new. A vibrant purple, there are gorgeous aromatics here; florals, the merest whiff of apricots from the Viognier, but expect this to integrate into the wine in the next year or two, white pepper, an array of spices, beetroot juice, cassis and root vegetables. A palate saturated in flavours with a flick of oak. Great intensity, length and a lovely supple texture. This will be a joy over the next eight to ten years and will improve over that time – indeed, the longer you leave it, the better it will be. Silky tannins too, this is delicious.

One of the early enthusiasts for Shiraz Viognier in the Yarra Valley, Yering Station understands the style better than most. Lively purple-garnet shades. Viognier brings some aromatic fireworks to bear with lifted violet, pepper, black cherry and spice. Flows easily, seamlessly through the mouth with a pure energy. A slinky blend of florals, minerals, black cherry, licorice, pepper and assorted garden herbs brings with it a load of personality. All that pent-up vitality is nicely corralled by svelte tannins.

The Carr Vineyard is the nexus of this beautifully etched, medium-bodied Reserve, considerably more shapely and refined than I recall from past experiences. There is clear attention paid to the bow of tannin, lithe, gently edgy and nicely frisky, promoting a gush of pepper, juniper and clove across the finish, infusing the panoply of blue fruits with savoriness over obvious fruit sweetness. Nicely done. Drink or hold. Screw cap.